Quotes of the Day

Whether you're looking at them from Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, Nepal, Bhutan or China, the Himalayas are always an uplifting sight: the world's highest mountain range has all 50 of the planet's tallest peaks, and most of the top 100.

But to my eyes, the finest vantage point lies near the northern Indian hill station of Darjeeling. The ridge of Sandakphu is the only place on earth from which you can see four of the five tallest mountains: 8,848-m Everest, 8,586-m Kangchenjunga (pictured), 8,511-m Lhotse and 8,463-m Makalu. (K-2, the second tallest at 8,611 m, is over the western horizon in Pakistan.)

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Sandakphu is itself pretty high up at 3,638 m, and the easiest access is by one of Darjeeling's famous vintage Land Rover taxis: it's a bumpy four-hour ride over some nasty terrain. The scenic route is on foot, a 30-km trek from Manebhanjan town. The route is dotted with rhododendron and magnolia forests and calls for many steep climbs, all of which will slow you down—the better to take in the stunning views. Expert trekkers can make it in 12 hours, but it's more fun to spread the trip across two days, allowing for a night's rest under the stars. There are several organized treks from Darjeeling, and you can get a bed at the government-owned trekker's bungalow at Sandakphu; for more information contact the Tourist Bureau, tel: (91-354) 225 4050.

The tourist brochures say you should visit in April or May, when the flowers are in bloom: locals claim there are over 600 varieties of orchid in the forests. (Warning: some are poisonous.) But unless you have a thing for botany, the best time to go is November, when the skies are clear and the views unclouded. Stand on the ridge, face north and turn your face from left to right for a 180° panorama of the Himalayas at their highest. You'll feel small—and get a big thrill.

• Bobby Ghosh
• Aloft in the Himalayas